MicroSeal is a permanent fabric protector that has been used in the Aerospace Industry for the past 25 years. It was specifically created in England decades ago to replenish the natural conditioning agent that sheep normally produce for their coat. This protective coating seals all fabrics and rugs without altering the texture or color.

MicroSeal also offers permanent stain, sunfade (nearly 100%), and wear resistance. This product is safe for your children and pets to be around as well: there are no fluorochemicals and it is California VOC compliant.

• Permanent Stain Resistance – Will survive many professional cleanings
• Permanent Sun Fade Resistance – Near 100% on most fabrics
• Seals All Fabrics/Carpets – Natural & Synthetics / will not change texture or color
• Can be applied to used fabrics – Won’t seal in dirt or stains
• Non Toxic & Non Allergenic – No Fluorochemicals or PTFE (non-stick) resin
• Independent Laboratory Tested – and proven worldwide in 80 countries

MicroSeal Red Wine Test

This multi-dimensional product has been on the market for over 20 years and we’re confident you will agree with us that it is simply the very best in Fine Fabric Protection.

MicroSeal Permanent Fabric Protection protects against: chocolate milk, soda, coffee, oil and dry soil, as well as many other everyday challenges.

DON’T BE FOOLED by other fabric protectors. They merely coat the fabric, possibly changing the texture or even the color. MicroSeal penetrates and does not change the look or feel of the fabric.

MICROSEAL PERMANENT FABRIC PROTECTION is ideal for protecting leather, silk, wool, linens and cottons, polyesters and synthetic fabrics, for fine furniture, Oriental rugs, draperies, walls, interiors of boats, planes and automobiles, and patio furniture.

MicroSeal Abrasion Test

A simple bead test of a coater (fluorochems or PTFE Resin) vs. MicroSeal (a penetrator) will sometimes result in the “apparent superiority of the coater. This is because the coater will cover more of the space between the fibers while MicroSeal will penetrate and seal the individual fibers. Further testing simulating wear (manipulating the fabric, rubbing it, cleaning it, etc.) will result in the coater quickly breaking up and permanent stains on the fibers occurring thereafter. Even ordinary dirt can be difficult to vacuum because the broken coater material “hangs on” to the dirt. The MicroSeal will not break up, wear off, or clean off and will continue to protect the fibers from permanent stains and sun fading for many years.

MicroSeal will always win the most important test of all…THE TEST OF TIME. More than words, 20 years in the aerospace industry, and worldwide independent labor

In October, I received a phone call from an owner of a beach house here on the Banks.  She asked me if I was familiar with “Carpet Beetles”,  I was not.  I have heard of them, but have never encountered a carpet Beetle.  So, I figured I would do some research on these little critters.

As it turns out these little guys aren’t common to the Outer Banks at all – granted it is possible to have them brought into your home from your guests.  However, both Pest Control companies I spoke with agree that the chances of you having a Carpet Beetle infestation is very unlikely here on the Outer Banks.

So, I was thinking since i didn’t know much about Carpet Beetles I wanted to share my research with you.  Enjoy!

Also, my client didn’t have carpet beetles, it turns out she had fleas.

What Do Carpet Beetles Feed On?

Carpet beetles feed on a variety of animal-based materials including wool, fur, silk, feathers and leather. Items commonly infested include wool sweaters, coats, blankets, carpets, down pillows and comforters, and upholstered furniture. Synthetic fabrics such as polyester and rayon are rarely attacked unless they are heavily soiled with food stains or body oils.

They prefer to feed in dark, undisturbed areas such as closets, attics, within boxes where woolens and furs are stored, along and under the edges of carpeting, underneath upholstered furniture, and in air ducts where they feed on lint, pet hair and other bits of debris.

Carpet beetle infestations may also originate from bird or animal nests or an animal carcass present in an attic, chimney or wall void. They also occasionally feed on seeds, pet food or cereal products in the kitchen or pantry.

Control

Legally, no pest control company can tell you that a flea insecticide can be used for carpet beetles and vice-versa.  However, the companies I spoke with would use the flea product to kill carpet beetles in there own home, if they ever had them.  To be honest it is rather hard for them to find insecticides formulated just for carpet beetles.

The best way to avoid carpet beetle problems is through prevention. Woolens and other susceptible fabrics should be dry cleaned or laundered before being stored for long periods. Cleaning not only removes perspiration odors that are attractive to the beetles, but also kills any eggs or larvae that may be present. Articles to be stored should then be packed with moth balls or flakes in tight-fitting containers. Insecticides should not be used to treat clothing. However, mothproofing solutions may be applied to susceptible clothing by professional dry cleaners.

Routine vacuuming effectively removes carpet beetles which are already present, as well as hair and lint which could support future infestations. Particular attention while vacuuming should be paid to the edges of carpets, along baseboards, underneath furniture and similar “quiet” areas where carpet beetles prefer to feed.

Insecticide applications directed into infested areas are often useful as a supplement to good housekeeping. Products containing active ingredients such as chlorpyrifos, permethrin, bendiocarb and allethrin are effective against carpet beetles. Sprays may be applied to carpets (especially beneath and along the edge adjacent to the baseboard), underneath furniture and other likely areas of infestation where prolonged contact with humans is unlikely. Clothing and bedding should not be sprayed and should be removed before treatment.

Control of carpet beetles requires patience and a thorough inspection to locate all sources of infestation. Elimination of widespread, ongoing infestations may require the services of a professional pest control operator.

Information was researched from University of Kentucky, University of Colorado and Outer Banks Based Pest Control Companies.

According to the experts, regular vacuuming and maintenance won’t always prevent damage caused by traffic, children, pets and other normal wear. Over time, carpet may become soiled, torn, burned, or lose color.

Trained, certified professionals offer simple suggestions on how to keep carpet looking new. Some common problems these professionals encounter include:

Open seams: Seam failure has a variety of causes and can become an unsightly hazard if not repaired promptly.

Burns or melted areas in carpet: Excessive heat or sparks from a variety of sources, including fireplaces, cigarette ashes, or irons can melt carpet fibers. Restoring your carpet’s appearance may involve clipping or replacing the singed tufts.

Pulled yarns or missing tufts: Pulled yarns or missing tufts are caused by a number of conditions including normal wear and tear, improper shipping/handling or pet damage. Sprouting tufts should be clipped immediately, and simple repairs can prevent further damage.

Bleached spots and discolorations: Chlorine bleach, acne medications or harsh cleaners can remove or alter the color of your carpet. Often re-dyeing or replacing carpet in the affected area is the best option to restore its appearance.

Ripples: Buckles or ripples may form in carpet over time. If left uncorrected, they may lead to premature soiling, wear or delamination. To prevent this, the carpet should be re-stretched.

To help maintain your carpet’s appearance and ensure satisfaction with the services performed, the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) recommends hiring an IICRC-Certified Firm employing an IICRC-Certified Repair and Re-installation technician to repair your carpet.

Professional carpet cleaners – It is to your advantage to use professional cleaners because their experience enables them to do a better job than you can do yourself. Their equipment has more extraction power than the rental units available to you, and the carpet should dry more quickly. True professionals have also made the investment in training to understand the equipment, to know the proper cleaning agents for the situation at hand, and to recognize the differences in fibers and carpet construction.

Shaw Industries recommends an IICRC technician (Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification).

Professional Cleaning – As a general rule, professional cleaning by a certified firm, should take place once per year. Many stain resist warranties require professional cleaning every 6 to 24 months or your warranty is void. This removes toxic pollutants for health reasons and helps with the performance of your carpet. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification, Carpet Rug Institute and your carpet manufacture they recommend hot water extraction every 6 to 12 months for health reasons. This is the industries minimum standard for the consumers protection.

Please read on for more facts about allergies, as well as practical tips on how to maintain the home to prevent allergies.

You can breathe easier in your home.
Ask the Allergist

What is an allergen?
An allergen is any substance that can trigger an allergic response. Besides indoor substances, outdoor pollens and foods are common allergens. When an allergic person encounters an allergen, the immune system becomes activated. This triggers a complex chain of events, which produce the symptoms of an allergic reaction, such as swelling of tissues, sneezing, wheezing, coughing, and other reactions. It is unclear why some substances trigger allergies and others do not.

Who gets allergies?
It is not yet fully understood why certain people get allergies while others do not. However, we do know that allergies can develop at any age, and heredity plays a key role in who will develop allergies. If one parent has allergies, the child will develop allergies 48 percent of the time, and if both parents have allergies, the child’s risk grows to 70 percent.

How can I find out more about allergies?
If you suspect you may be suffering from allergies, contact an allergist /immunologist. Your allergist can perform tests to determine the source of your allergies and then establish the best course of treatment. Often, the first step is to minimize your exposure to your particular allergen(s). You and your allergist can work together so that you can make appropriate changes in your environment.

How to Reduce Allergies in Your Home
Indoor allergens that can be found in the home include dust mites, pet dander, mold, and cockroach allergens. An allergist may recommend environmental control measures for the home depending upon the offending allergen. Complete avoidance may be difficult, but simple steps can be taken to reduce exposure:

Lack of circulation
Opening windows to let indoor allergens out of the home can bring outdoor allergens such as pollen and mold spores into the house. Instead, use heat and air conditioning to clean, circulate and dehumidify the air in the home. Also, using a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter to remove airborne allergens, such as pet dander, can lessen the amount of circulating allergens. Dust mites and cockroach allergens are heavy particles that do not stay suspended in the air and settle quickly, so air filters do not work well for these allergens.

Moisture
Dust mites and molds thrive only in high humidity areas. Maintain the home’s relative humidity level below 55 percent by using heat and/or air-conditioning equipment consistently and using a dehumidifier where necessary – doing so will discourage dust mites and mold growth. Repair all roof and plumbing leaks to prevent mold growth.

Cleaning

Cleaning is the best way to reduce allergens. Done regularly, cleaning stops allergens from accumulating, which helps minimize allergy and/or asthma symptoms. Pay special attention to the bedroom since most exposure to dust mites is while sleeping – 60 percent of dust mite allergen is found in mattresses and bedding. In order to control these allergens, wash bed linens in hot water (at least 130F) weekly and vacuum mattresses regularly. Comforters, blankets and curtains should be washed frequently. Encase pillows, mattresses and box springs in “allergen-control” covers, and freeze or wash stuffed animals weekly in hot water (at least 130F).

Clean and disinfect wet, warm areas – such as kitchens and bathrooms – weekly to stop mold growth.

Smooth floors should be vacuumed, dusted and wet mopped weekly. When sweeping, take care not to circulate dust from the floor into the air.

Vacuum carpet and rugs at least once a week – twice a week in bedrooms and high-traffic areas. Use a well-functioning vacuum cleaner that has adjustable brushes, and bears the Carpet and Rug Institute’s Vacuum Cleaner Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Testing Program green label. These are vacuum cleaners that have been tested for and meet strict standards for removing soil and containing the dust within the bag and the vacuum cleaner. Vacuum cleaners may produce dramatically different cleaning results and impact on the indoor environment. The green label program endorses only vacuum cleaners that perform each of the following three tasks well: soil removal, dust containment (without putting the dust back into the air) and carpet appearance retention.

Vacuum upholstered furniture regularly, and clean hard furniture with a damp cloth. A damp cloth should be used on window treatments, windowsills and window frames, ceiling fans, light fixtures, and storage units as well. Dust also can be reduced by storing books and knick-knacks in closed cabinets – doing so leaves fewer places for dust to settle and makes cleaning easier.

Your allergist/immunologist can provide you with more information on allergies.

There are 4 methods of carpet cleaning approved by the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration Certification (IICRC), the world’s most recognized body of certification for carpet and upholstery cleaners.

Method 1: Hot Water Extraction

Otherwise known as “steam cleaning”, hot water extraction is the process that most are probably familiar with. Hot water extraction is the correct technical term, not steam cleaning. Actual steam is not used at all. A hot water solution is produced and immediately recovered, creating a “flushing” action on the carpet. There are many variations of hot water extraction. From the most powerful truck-mounted machine down to the small portable machine rented from the grocery store. What’s the difference. Every machine has different capabilities. Mainly the pressure in which the water is produced and the recovery capability.

However, the biggest and most important difference is in the person cleaning the carpet. A trained technician will know what pressure to use, what cleaning products to use, and how to get maximum soil removal and maximum spot removal without over-wetting the carpet or leaving a sticky residue behind. The horror stories of carpet being wet for days is due to operator error, not because “steam” or “hot water extraction” caused it.

Hot Water Extraction done properly will remove more soil than any other method. Further, anything that has seeped into the backing such as urine, coffee, beverages or something can be “flushed out” with hot water extraction. It can also be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations as it is very versatile.

Method #2: Absorbent Pad

Also known as bonnet cleaning, this method employs a round pad that spins across the surface of the carpet, absorbing the soil. A solution is applied to the carpet or the pad to aid in releasing soils. This is a method that some may classify as “dry cleaning” although water based products are used in almost all “dry cleaning” systems, therefore the term dry cleaning (cleaning with only a solvent based cleaner) is not technical and would not be desired. Absorbent pad cleaning is not a deep cleaning method. It should only be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations.

Method #3: Dry Compound
This method uses a powder that has been treated with detergents, water, and solvents. The powder compound is sprinkled onto the carpet and a brush with cylindrical brushes is used to work the powder into the carpet pile. The solution that is in the powder releases the soil. The soil is then absorbed into the absorbent powder. This method should only be used in lightly soiled and maintenance situations.

Method # 4: Shampoo or Dry Foam

In this method, a shampoo or foam is generated and worked into the carpet with a rotary brush or cylindrical brush machine. The shampoo or foam releases the soil. The soil is then vacuumed with the machine or allowed to dry and removed with a conventional vacuum cleaner. This method should be used in only lightly soiled situations and maintenance cleaning. When using shampoo, great care should be taken to avoid leaving a sticky residue on the carpet.

Please know that your generosity and thoughtfulness are most appreciated.

A note from Marilyn Canning – Chairpeerson

These widely used comments have stemmed from unfortunate encounters with uninformed
cleaners that have left the carpet with an overload of detergent residue. The consumer has assumed that this is the case with all carpet cleaning and resolved to wait until the carpet is in dire straights to clean it.

The good news is that a properly cleaned carpet will not re-soil as quickly and will actually last
longer. Why? Because damaging soils are removed with effective cleaning. Soil that is
not removed by vacuuming, even though it can rarely be seen by the naked eye, cuts and slices
on the carpet fibers as the carpet is being walked on breaking down the carpet yarns in the
traffic areas. The result is that even with restorative cleaning at that point, it will not correct the damage that has been done to the fiber. Fiber producers and carpet manufacturers recommend that a residential carpet should be professionally cleaned at least 18 to 24 months for best performance, more often in heavily trafficked and heavy soiling situations.

A Clean Carpet is a Healthy Carpet

Not to mention that a carpet that is not cleaned on a regular basis is an unhealthy carpet. Carpet is like a filter. It collects soils, pollens, insecticides, exhaust, etc. that gets tracked in or blown in from the polluted outdoors. This creates and unhealthy indoor environment.

Pet urine can cause permanent damage to your floors and fabrics. It can also create an unhealthy indoor environment. When urine is first deposited onto a floor or fabric, it is in an almost “neutral” state which means it is easier to remove when it is fresh. Once it dries, it turns “alkaline” and becomes more difficult to remove. If left for days or weeks, depending on the fabric or floor type, it will permanently change the dye structure, therefore causing permanent staining. Even if the soluble deposits are removed, the damage to the dye structure may already be done.

**This means that no one can guarantee complete removal of all urine spots. Please consult with your technician if you have questionable urine spots on your carpet.

To prevent permanent staining in the future, clean urine spots immediately by blotting with a white terry cloth towel or plain white paper towels until no moisture is transferred. To clean the spot, mix 1 part white vinegar to 2 parts water and massage (don’t rub) into the spot with a white terry cloth. Once you have “flushed” as much of the urine out as possible, blot with dry cloths until dry to the touch. *If you have a small extraction machine, flush with fresh water until spot is removed. *DO NOT USE OVER THE COUNTER, GENERAL SPOTTERS OR EXTRACTION DETERGENT. IF YOU DO NOT USE THIS FORMULA, ASK US ABOUT SPECIAL PET SPOTTERS.